Well, I wanted to get all this down while it was still fresh, so K and I have debriefed quite a bit about this trip. I’m putting it all in one (behemoth) post, so it can be saved if desired.
Before I go a step further, I want to make it very clear that we are not travel experts. There are MANY people (some who will read this) who are much more widely traveled than we, and who bring a lot of savvy to the table, especially with regard to international travel. But, as I am the primary (read: SOLE) travel planner of our adventures, I’ve learned a thing or two as we’ve begun taking longer and longer trips, and maybe it will serve you in some capacity with your own planning, certainly for Scotland, and maybe even beyond.
I’ve actually heard people say that Scotland is boring. While I try to have a heart for ALL people, this type of thinking is, to me, alien and UNNATURAL.
There. I said it. Ha!
All kidding aside, I DO understand that if you don’t care a whit about history or the outdoors, and you don’t care for the (more than) occasional rain shower, maybe Scotland isn’t for you. If you’re ALL ABOUT THE FOOD, you also may want to seriously consider where you want to spend your vacation dollars more effectively. While the foodie scene IS on the rise, and there are some GREAT restaurants all over Scotland, if food is your primary interest, Italy or France may be a better fit. The Scots love their hearty meal and a wee dram and they’re good at THAT.
Lodging, though, is my sticking point. That’s a huge part of any trip for me and I’m pretty picky about the places we stay. That’s the main crux of this post, and where our “ratings” are applied. You can read through our qualifiers and determine for yourself whether these things are as important for you. For our (not-at-all) official rating system, we have decided to use the travel trunk 🧳 as our “star,” for no other reason than I actually own one, stickers and all, and it’s one of my favorite things.
Our lodging qualifications are as follows:
- Location – good “base” area to access local sites, attractions, and restaurants; easy parking
- Aesthetic – Tastefully and thoughtfully decorated, all furnishings, carpets, etc., kept in excellent condition
- Amenities – Every possible need has already been considered and provided before a guest even realizes they need it
- Cleanliness – Every nook, cranny, and corner is completely clean and free of dust or mildew.
- Staff – Every person is overjoyed to welcome their guests, service-minded from check-in to check-out
- Bank for the Buck – pricing in line with product, worth every penny
🧳🧳🧳🧳🧳 – Excellence in every area; far exceeding expectation
🧳🧳🧳🧳 – Very Good; expectations met
🧳🧳🧳 – Enjoyable, but falling short in some areas
🧳🧳 – Basic needs met, but only just
🧳 – Key areas overlooked; would not stay again
Along with the lodging ratings, I’ll mention some of our favorite things to do in each area, some stand out restaurants, and some places that we will look into staying instead, the next time around.
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Rental Car:
In the UK, Arnold Clark is one of the largest car rental companies. Celtic Legend is a Scottish Arnold Clark rep and I cannot recommend them more emphatically. I worked with the same people via email (Hi Steve and Liam!), to set everything up, and they offer an airport service for an additional (reasonable) fee, where a person will follow your flight and meet you in the arrivals hall to take you to your car. They will wait up to five hours if there is a flight delay and communicate with you the whole time. It was FANTASTIC and WELL WORTH the extra money, speaking of which, their costs were reasonable and INCLUDE INSURANCE (outside the deductible or “excess”, though you can pay another fee to cover that, too, if you choose). They knew we were bringing golf clubs and upgraded us at no extra charge, afraid that the car I’d chosen might not be big enough. Truly, I can’t say enough good things.
Edinburgh:
🧳🧳🧳🧳Lodging: Alex’s Stockbridge Apartment (Airbnb)
We loved this apartment. Nice amenities, appliances, clean, stylish, and thoughtfully appointed, it was darling. It was nice to have two bedrooms, so we could use one as a dressing room, and the location was great. Stockbridge is a quiet area north of the main tourist areas of Old Town/Grassmarket, but those areas are still very walkable. It has great eateries close by, and though it sits above a busy Thai restaurant, the noise was never an issue. The only reasons we gave a 4-trunk-rating are no dedicated parking, and it has no washer/dryer. Neither would be an issue if you were only staying in Edinburgh (no need for a car if you are just visiting that city), or if you were there only for a shorter trip where washing wouldn’t be an issue. Alex was a dream to work with, very helpful and available, and we have no issue recommending her lovely flat.
Things to do:
While we did all the “biggies,” (Edinburgh Castle, Palace at Holyrood House, St Giles Cathedral, Royal Mile and the Grassmarket, etc.) and fully recommend them all, I particularly enjoyed the Royal Botanical Gardens (free and FAB), as well as the National Galleries of Scotland, and the National Museum of Scotland (a must if visiting with kids).
Restaurant:
Do NOT miss The Kitchin for a Michelin fine-dining experience. Book well in advance.
The Pantry in Stockbridge (walkable from the apartment) for breakfast.
Good Day Trips:
- Stirling – Stirling Castle, Wallace Monument, Battle of Bannockburn, Church of the Holy Rude (ask for a tour with Andy)
- South Queensferry
- Nearby golf – Ladybank and St Andrews (north), North Berwick and Gullane (south)
Loch Lomond/Trossachs National Park:
🧳🧳🧳Lodging: Roman Camp Hotel
There are a lot of things to love about Roman Camp. It sits on beautiful grounds. It has a lot of cool history and some really great common spaces that beckon you to linger. We received a complimentary upgrade upon arrival, which was nice, and were very warmly cared for throughout our stay. It sits in the lovely little town of Callander, right in the Trossachs National Park, with wonderful access to trailheads and beautiful scenery. It’s within spitting distance to Loch Lomond, as well. Their food was excellent, with breakfast included, and a very solid dinner offering, too. But Roman Camp is TIRED. It needs at least £500,000 to be poured into it (a million if they want to do it right), and I SO HOPE that happens, as it’s deserving, and could easily be brought back to its former glory. If it received that needed attention, I would happily race back and tell all my friends. But, for now, we’re giving it a 3-trunk rating.
Things to do:
HIKE!!! Download AllTrails and just search the whole area. It’s SO beautiful. This part of Scotland is woodlands, lochs, and hills, so you can’t go wrong. We loved the Loch Katrine and Primrose Hill Circular. It’s a longer one than our average 4-5 miler, but not difficult and full of eye candy.
Glencoe:
🧳🧳🧳Lodging: Glencoe Inn and Gathering
The Glencoe Inn. It sat in a good spot, right in the heart of the beautiful and mystical Glencoe mountain range. A part of the Crerar Hotel Group (you’ll hear this name again), it wasn’t bad, but it could’ve been great. The staff wasn’t overly friendly (save the wonderful breakfast host), but they weren’t awful either. Our room was nice, but not well thought out, and as much as I hate to say it, not as clean as it should’ve been. Not nasty, mind you (I wouldn’t have stayed), but not what you want in a hotel room. They did have a really nice breakfast (included), great coffee, and a close proximity to many trails; however, now that we’ve been there, we would recommend seeing this area from Fort William, just up the road. It sits in the shadow of Ben Nevis (Glencoe’s largest “munro” or mountain), and while we haven’t stayed there, I have Inverlochy Castle Hotel on my “future” list.
Things to Do:
Like Trossachs, this part of Scotland is ALL about the outdoors. Truly, whether hiking or fishing (some of the best salmon fishing in the world), you’ll want to be outside. We loved our short Three Sisters hike and the lovely Ballachulish Quarry Circular, but there are MANY more for you to enjoy. Go tackle one of the munros, if you’re up for it!
Isle of Skye:
🧳🧳🧳🧳🧳Lodging: Storr Apartments – Fada
How do I begin? This was the finest self-catering apartment I’ve ever experienced. Fresh flowers and wine greeted us the moment we walked in. Soft music was playing, as the cool breeze wafted through the windows. High thread-count linens. Plush towels. PRISTINE carpets, floors, bathroom. High end bath products. Local eggs, bread, cheese, meat, and milk in the fridge, right down to a pint of Ben and Jerry’s and some whisky ice in the freezer. The extras went on and ON. Even the bathroom floor was heated and there was a washer/dryer complete with soap. Fiona knows her stuff and she runs a great family business, attending to our every need and making it such a wonderful stay, right there in the very shadow of one of the isle’s most iconic natural wonders, the Old Man of Storr. If you spend any time on Skye (and you SHOULD), you MUST STAY HERE.
Things to Do:
We did see Dunvegan Castle which was fascinating, but spent most all of our time hiking some of the most beautiful hikes we’ve ever done (don’t miss The Quiraing or The Old Man of Storr). However, there is excellent fly fishing on the isle (salmon and trout), as well, along with shopping in Portree, The Fairy Pools, Talisker Distillery and Talisker Beach, just to name a few of its many attractions. Skye is worth the trip.
Restaurant:
We had reservations at Three Chimneys, a casual but Michelin fine dining restaurant on the west coast of Skye, but we ended up relinquishing them, as we couldn’t get off the mountain in time. However, I have no problem recommending it. Across the board, everything I’ve heard from those there, as well as online, has indicated a top-notch experience. Reservations a must. Note: They have a second location at the Talisker Distillery that is more casual. The one to which I’m referring is just minutes from Dunvegan Castle.
Dornoch:
🧳🧳🧳🧳🧳Lodging: Dornoch Station Hotel
When I told Kevin I’d booked us at Dornoch Station, he looked at me in horror. He’d been there before, having walked in for lunch with our son-in-law, about six years ago, and it was in terrible shape. But I showed him the pictures and told him it was one of the Scottish and Northern Ireland hotels that had been bought by Marine and Lawn, an American hotel group operating solely in the UK. Let me just say they know what they’re doing. BEAUTIFUL interiors. EXCELLENT products and amenities. HEAVY blackout curtains to block out the light (very short nights), while allowing air circulation, and a fan included in the room. There is no air-conditioning in Scotland, as temps don’t typically get out of the 60s. Those windows are always open, but a fan is a nice touch to move the air. Great food. Excellent, attentive staff. Perfectly located in walking distance to Royal Dornoch Golf Club (across the road) and Dornoch village, and easy driving distance to some other lovely hamlets and even Inverness. For a full-on hotel experience with an intimate feel, it’s hard to beat.
Things to Do:
This area has some wonderful coastal golf courses, including Royal Dornoch Golf Club; Brora Golf Club; Tain Golf Club. For castle and history buffs, Dunrobin Castle is a real treat (stay for the falconry show) just north of Dornoch in Goldspie, and the History Links Museum is a quirky little museum about the history of Dornoch, right there in town. E-bikes can be reasonably rented at Dornoch Bike Hire to explore the town, beaches, and countryside, and if you want to go a little further afield, don’t miss Culloden Battlefield an hour away in Inverness. Finally, if you’re looking for a lovely spa treatment, contact Gwen at Aspen Spa.
Restaurants:
Mara at Links House is a lovely and intimate dining experience. (NOTE: This is located in Links House, a very elegant boutique hotel. While I haven’t personally experienced the rooms, those with whom we talked at dinner loved it. If the dining and common spaces are any indication, I wouldn’t hesitate in recommending their lodging.) Luigi’s is another nice option in town, enjoyed by the locals, as well as Milk and Honey for breakfast and lunch.
Aberdeenshire (Northeast corner of Cairngorms National Park):
🧳🧳🧳🧳🧳Lodging: Kildrummy Inn
RUN, DON’T WALK, to Kildrummy Inn. Seriously, we loved it SO MUCH. Run impeccably with love and care, Sophie and David Littlewood have put their heart and soul into this jewel box of an inn and it shows. Top quality choices in every single detail from linens to bath products to decor, a very carefully curated whisky snug, an award-winning dinner menu and a marvelous breakfast (included) served on beautiful, unique pottery, alongside one of the best lattes we’ve ever had. There is a little stocked fridge for the guests staying in one of their four luxurious rooms, with water and snacks on the go. It was more reasonable priced that some of the other places we stayed that were notably inferior, and it is situated within driving distance to SO MUCH of Aberdeenshire, that you could easily base here for a few days. But make your reservations early, as it stays booked up and you’ll be SAD to miss it!
Things to Do:
Aberdeenshire is home to over 250 castles, so you should GO CRAZY. Kildrummy Inn is actually right down the road from the very old and very cool ruin of Kildrummy Castle, but there is Balmoral to the south (more on that below), and Craigevar Castle, Castle Fraser, Crathes Castle (one of my favorite gardens!) Braemar, and Drum. On top of all the historical structures, you’re right on the cusp of Cairngorms National Park, with all manner of hikes available for every level of enthusiast, as well as fishing, which David and Sophie can help you arrange. As for golf, Royal Aberdeen and Carnoustie are only an hour’s drive.
Restaurants:
Just eat at Kildrummy Inn! You won’t be sorry. And have David help you with a whisky and/or wine selection in the snug before dinner. You won’t be sorry about that either.
Ballater (Within Cairngorms National Park):
🧳 Lodging: Balmoral Arms Hotel
Remember when I mentioned Crerar Hotel Group? Well, like Glencoe Inn and Gathering, Balmoral Arms is one of their hotels. When we decided to extend our trip for another week, we first tried to extend our stay at Kildrummy, but they were completely full and couldn’t accommodate us. So, we looked a little closer to Balmoral Castle, since we knew we wanted to see that and do some hiking in that part of the park. Crerar does a good job with their web sites, as they all look great, but while this inn probably actually WAS great when they bought and restored it, there were some important details to which they were no longer giving proper attention. Cleanliness, for one – again, not nasty – but just falling short. Terrible pillows and an uncomfortable mattress. Breakfast was included, but not great, and the cost was more per night than what we’d just enjoyed at Kildrummy. If staying in Ballater makes more sense with your plans, look into Darroch Learg Hotel. But if you can base from one place to cover the whole area, stay in Kildrummy. You can thank me later.
Things to Do:
Balmoral Castle is only about 20 minutes down the road from Ballater. This year, for the first time EVER, it was opened up for interior tours for ONE month, and they booked up almost immediately. I don’t know whether this will become a regular thing, but if you know you’re going to be in that area during the summer (this year it was early July to early August), check for tickets as soon as you know your dates. The grounds are still worth the tour, even if you don’t get in, and since the property is vast (50K acres), there are MANY hiking trails available right there, most with spectacular views. We can personally recommend the Balmoral Cairns. IMPORTANT: The castle and grounds are closed to the public for most of August and September, as these months are when the Royal Family visit and when the grounds are prepared for winter.
Dunkeld:
🧳🧳🧳 Lodging: Dunkeld House Hotel
The town of Dunkeld is situated in Perthshire, which is known as the bridge between lowlands and highlands. That area is beautiful in its own right, with a mix of foothills, farmland, and rivers, the latter of which (the River Tay) runs right through Dunkeld and directly in front of Dunkeld House Hotel. It’s lovely, and we had treated ourselves to one of their grand suites, a spacious thing that was quite impressive upon entering. This was a relief since – you guessed it – it was in the Crerar group. They had an anniversary treat waiting for us, which was very nice, and we enjoyed it from our little balcony overlooking the river. However, the longer we were in the room, the more we started to notice some things missing. Like an iron and ironing board, for instance, typically a staple in any level of hotel. Then we realized there wasn’t a fan, which had been provided just about everywhere we’d been, and then the hairdryer was missing. Honestly, these weren’t that big a deal, as they were provided when we asked, but it just seemed odd that we HAD to ask. More importantly, and as much as I hate to say it, the absolutely BEAUTIFUL bathtub-in-the-shower situation, again, was not as clean as it should’ve been. We quickly figured out that it was due to a drainage problem with the shower, which we did note when we checked out, but I’d be really surprised if no one before us had brought it to their attention. On the positive side, the food here was good (again, breakfast included), with a great bar, and nice common rooms, and they had beautiful grounds on which long walks were a pleasure. Overall, it was a decent stay, but not near the level it should’ve been for the money we spent. Also, Dunkeld, itself, isn’t as nice a town as Pitlochry, right up the road. If you are going to be in the Perthshire area, we’d highly recommend Pitlochry. Great little shops and restaurants, and there are some inns and hotels there that looked quite nice. I would just caution against anything under the Crerar brand, certainly something I will be checking from here on out for any stays in the UK.
Things to Do:
One of Kevin’s favorite courses from this trip was Blairgowrie Golf Club. It’s a beautiful parkland course, with a great clubhouse and super-friendly membership, and he just loved it. Blair Castle is nearby and LOVELY, but if you’re anywhere near this area, make the 40-minute drive to go see Glamis Castle (where the Queen Mother grew up), too. It’s just wonderful. For hiking, Craigower Circular (out of Pitlochry) is a beautiful hike and the last half of it is ALL summer lilac/butterfly bush for over a mile. The fragrance is ASTONISHING.
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General Tips:
- You will quickly notice that a lot of castles and historical monuments are owned by the National Trust of Scotland. They offer a membership, so if you see that you’ll be visiting at least four of their sites, the membership is worth the cost and it will also afford you free parking at each site (Otherwise, it’s “pay and display” – a parking pass bought at a kiosk, typically around £3-4.)
- While it’s nice to have a few pounds on hand, there is not a need to change a large amount of money if you are traveling with a credit card. HOWEVER, it’s IMPERATIVE to make sure your credit card does not charge you a foreign transaction fee (typically about 3%). Right now, the exchange rate is $1.00 = £0.77 so that extra 3% on every charge can really add up. If you do change money, don’t wait to do it at the airport, as you won’t get near the value with their kiosk fees.
- If you’ve done any research at all on Scotland travel, the NUMBER ONE thing you’ll read about clothing is the importance of WEARING LAYERS. Summer is an excellent time to go, as it tends to be the warmest (temps typically between 48°- 68°F) and driest (take that with a grain of salt) but it’s also peak season for that reason. You may want to look into the shoulder seasons and compare costs. Regardless, though, you can get rained on at any time of day, any day of the year, so layers are key.
- We both packed for four weeks in a carry-on and a backpack (not including golf clubs). I cannot express to you HOW MUCH EASIER this made EVERYTHING. You CAN do it. It just takes a little more planning and forethought. I’ve put together an Amazon list with links to some of my favorites that work GREAT, along with the links for some other items that Amazon doesn’t carry.
- My favorite travel backpack EVER
- Merino wool compression socks for the airplane and hiking
- I LOVE this waterproof, breathable, lightweight and packable jacket!
- The greatest travel joggers and dressy outfit – just put on out of your crammed case and walk out the door!
- Amazon List – this includes a terrific all-in-one plug adaptor, some laundry sheets for quick loads in a hotel sink/tub, merino wool layering pieces (they really CAN be worn several times without needing to wash), great quick-dry travel and hiking pants, hiking boots, umbrellas, bug repellent towelettes (summer is midge season) and more.
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So ends my gargantuan tome. If you’ve gotten to this point, I APPLAUD YOU, as you must actually be planning that trip! HURRAY FOR YOU!! Give me a shout if you have any questions, but in the meantime I lift my glass to your future joy and say “Sláinte!”